The Obtainer - 9/4/24, Wednesday

Valet.
The Obtainer

Wednesday,
September 4th Edition

Cory Ohlendorf

You know it, you love it … but do you know the origin story of the L.L.Bean tote bag? Or why it’s so damn tough? Let’s dig into it.

- Cory Ohlendorf, Editor in Chief ⋯ @coryohlendorf

 

Anatomy of a Classic

The L.L.Bean Tote

It’s the granddaddy of all other tote bags. The quintessential canvas bag. Rugged, relaxed and endlessly versatile. It's a daily carry-all, makes for a simple gym bag or easy travel bag and it's basically required for any American located along the Eastern seaboard. I'm, of course, talking about L.L.Bean's classic tote bag, which has remained virtually unchanged in the 80 years since it was first released.

There are some subtle differences. When the brand first introduced its now-famous heavyweight tote bag in 1944, it wasn't a comfortable bag for those headed out on the boat. It was a solution for carrying ice at a time when the majority of American households didn't have refrigerators. The wide, water-resistant canvas bag was designed to transport ice easily from the car to one's icebox. It eventually became known as a household tool, able to schlep groceries and lug other items required for household chores. Early L.L.Bean catalogs marketed it as a “strong bag of builders that serves as a basket for wood, garden vegetables and fruits, etc.” Back then, it would've cost you around three dollars.

Twenty years later, the bag was relaunched in a trimmer form and with a slightly sunnier disposition—rebranded as the “Boat and Tote”. This was a pivotal time, since it's when L.L.Bean offered a selection of colored handles, along with various sizes of the bag. These were the foundational design elements that made the tote so iconic that little changes have been required for the next 50 years. Today, you can have it finished with an extra pocket on the outside and a secure zippered closure on the inside. There's also the option to have it embroidered with either your initials or any word up to 10 characters. But the bones of the bag remain the same.

It all starts with a sturdy and smooth, but no doubt, substantial 24 oz. cotton canvas that's also made in the USA. The brand uses the same #4 duck canvas used in factory conveyor belts due to its incredible strength. “It simply wears like iron,” the brand tells us. “No other canvas even comes close.” They also double-stitch the overlapped seams with heavy-duty T69 bonded nylon thread for extra durability. “We take strength seriously,” they say. “Our totes are designed with a reinforced canvas bottom and tested to hold up to 500 pounds.”

You'll likely never need to try and carry anything that heavy in your bag, but the point is that it's strong enough to take anything you throw in it. Literally. And it's why this is one of those beloved items that will last, year after year, and only continue to get better with age. An L.L.Bean tote hasn't been improved on in the last half century simply because it hasn't needed it. They've found a timeless design that not only looks good but is practical. You can (and should) use it everyday, for years on end. And considering the price mark-up you'll see on used bags selling on eBay and other vintage shops, you might even consider it an investment. It's certainly the best bag you can buy for less than fifty bucks.

Your Options

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Vintage

Vintage dealer Brian Davis of Wooden Sleepers says the bags are basically “indestructible.” He sees Boat and Totes “from the 1970s and '80s still going strong today.”

1980s Boat and Tote,
$100 (or best offer) on eBay

 
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The Classic

Don't call it basic. The bare bones starter tote comes in a dozen color choices, four different sizes and with the option for regular carrying handles or long shoulder straps.

Boat and Tote open-top, $34.95

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5 Stylish Items to Buy This Week

This is the perfect between-season piece ($330). It's lightweight, but makes for a substantial layer. It's easy to pull on and off, depending on the weather, and it's made from a soft organic cotton corduroy—complete with stretch for ease of movement. It'll pair nicely with everything from tees and denim shirts to knit polos and lightweight sweaters.

See all 5 products »

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Drops to
Watch For
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UNIQLO has a new collaboration with renowned British designer Clare Waight Keller (who was also just named as UNIQLO’s new creative director). Last fall, they launched an affordable womenswear sub-label titled UNIQLO : C, but this year, the guys get in on the fun with a range of soft layers and and oversized sweaters, along with a pair of very cool pull-on, lug sole boots.

Available September 5

 
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Smart Buys

The sales and discounts our team is currently watching.

 

Made with durable twill fabric from England's historic British Millerain and finished with bridle leather straps, Filson's classic tote rarely goes on sale, so take advantage.

$275 / $206.25
by Filson

 

A lightweight take on the designer's best-selling Dylan jacket, this is cut from a water-resistant Italian fabric that's ideal for the in-between seasons.

$298 / $199
by Todd Snyder

 

This handsome hiker checks all the boxes: Waterproof nubuck leather, GORE-TEX fabric and a Vibram “Megagrip” lug sole. And now it's 25% off.

$220 / $164.99
by Hoka

 

An upgraded version of Breville's most popular espresso machine, this features 25 grind settings and temperature controls, making it easy to pull a barista-worthy shot.

$899.95 / $699.95
by Breville

 

J.Crew sources top quality denim for their jeans, and has perfected the break-in process for authentic washes that fit and feel great. And now you can get them on discount.

$128 / $88.99
by J.Crew

 

One of A&F's most popular tee styles, this slightly cropped, boxy fit shirts is now on sale. It's available in a few colorways, but this off-white is our favorite.

$40 / $22.99 by
Abercrombie & Fitch

 

Want more?
See all 31 sales »

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