The Obtainer - 4/17/23, Monday
↦ The Resurgence of Raw Denim
Monday, April 17th Edition
I typed this up while sitting in some pretty rigid denim—I’m still waiting to wash them in six months.
- Leon Hedgepeth, Shopping Editor ⋯ @leonhedgepeth
BuyingGuide
The Resurgence of Raw Denim
Trends come and go, but one constant in menswear has always been (and will likely always be) a good pair of jeans. In fact, they've now officially been around 150 years in 2023, thanks to the originator, Mr. Levi Strauss. And while for the past five years or so, lighter washes and distressed styles were the go-to looks, we're now seeing a return to the original classic. We're talking about a fresh pair of raw selvedge indigo-dyed jeans—the perfect blank canvas for anyone to wear. Of course, you can spiral down into an absurd amount of style forums trying to figure out which brands are the best, read dissertations on fabric weights, wefts, and the debate over unsanforized (no shrinkage) versus sanforized (pre-shrunk). But you don't need all of that.All you really need to know is that while raw denim is back, it is a little different than what we were wearing before. Today's unwashed dark denim is cut in more straight and relaxed fits, as opposed to years ago, when they were slimmer with an aggressive taper. I blame the pandemic for the resurgence. Before COVID, guys were happy with comfy, lived-in jeans, but once you start wearing sweats for two years straight, pulling on a pair of crisp, raw denim is almost refreshing.Over the last century and a half, denim has clearly evolved, but the classic fits are enduring for a reason. They just work. Which is why Levi's Vintage Clothing brings back some retro 501 fits each year. And really, no matter what your favorite denim brand is, I'm sure they've made some type of fit influenced by a pair of 501s or 505s.We went from not being able to get dressed up to now embracing the time it takes to wear-in a sturdy pair of jeans that will inevitably take awhile to break in. But if you're a little concerned about the break-in period, you'll be happy to know that the new interpretations are more laidback, with a roomier silhouette. There are even cargo and painter pant styles out there—which is definitely a little easier on the legs. The key is to wear the hell out of them, and no matter what the washing myths are, clean them whenever they start to stink. Trust us, you'll know it when you smell it (and don't put them in the freezer). So to get you started, we've rounded up the best denim in a range of price points, so choose the one that works best for your style and budget.
4 of Our Favorites
imogene + willie worked with Vidalia Mills denim to create a crisp pair of raw denim. Everything is patterned, cut and sewn in the U.S. from right-hand twill 13.5 oz. denim made on restored shuttle looms.
Willie indigo rigid denim, $235 by imogene + willie
The roomiest and most expensive jeans in our roundup. Made in the U.S. on Union Special machine, each pair is hand-stamped with a leather patch signifying which number your jean is out of the limited edition collection.
Rowan selvage raw denim, $445 by Raleigh Workshop
Levi's reproduction of 1944 501 fit feels like you're stepping back in time. These came out during WWII and are made without the watch pocket rivets and the back waist cinch to conserve raw materials for the war effort. Classics only get better with time, and these are proof.
1944 501 jean, $295 by Levi's
Madewell has made one of the best pairs of raw denim for under $200. Cut in a slouchy and relaxed fit, the fabric has a substantial feel and comes from the well-respected Nihon Menpu mill in Japan.
Vintage relaxed straight jean, $198 by Madewell
Where are some places to find sexy, stylish dishes like plates and coffee cups?
- Daniel
While places like Crate & Barrel and CB2 are always excellent options, it’s our job to go the extra mile, and I’ve got a few options I think will spice up your dining situation.
Upton makes some of my favorite coffee mugs—they’re handmade, so each one is unique, microwave and dishwasher-safe, and the colors complement any other dish color you have in your cabinets. For plates, I love Hawkins New York—these olive green ones would look perfect sitting on top of an oak-colored kitchen table, and they’re $48 for a set of four. If you want something less bold and more streamlined, London-based LSA International makes an amazing set of plates. Food and beverages seem to taste better whenever the mug or plate you’re using looks cool, right? I hope your next at-home dining experience is a good one.
⋆ Have a style question you'd like answered? Ask The Obtainer
Test Drive
Momofuku Noodles
Breakfast and dinner are always the most important meals of the day, but lunch can often be forgotten. Maybe because you’re too busy to eat or you don’t want to eat something that’s so heavy it will make you want to nap when you should be working—and sadly, you just can’t do that. My wife and I work from home with a toddler, and ensuring he gets proper nutrients while shaping his palette (all while managing to eat ourselves) can be tough. Our go-to lunchtime savior has been these “Soy and Scallion Noodles” from renowned chef Dave Chang’s food empire, Momofuku.They’re easy to fix, and my son loves them. I boil four cups of water, then throw in the noods for just three minutes, and I take my spaghetti claw spoon straight from the boiling pot to my serving bowl. My pro-tip is to hang the noodles over the pot for a second before I put them into my bowl—no need to drain and dry the noodles out. Then mix in the included scallions and soy sauce. Although the noodles are as convenient as those dollar-packs of instant ramen, the flavor has a restaurant-level richness, and the texture has a satisfying chew like an udon noodle, but not quite as thick. The noodles are air-dried, and the decadent sauce is made from Momofuku’s house recipe soy sauce blended with a toasted sesame oil. It emulsifies over the noodles creating the perfect balance of salty, sweet and savory flavors. They taste way better than your average ramen packet, and they’re better for you. They have 25% fewer calories and double the protein of most packaged ramen. And if you’ve got the time, I suggest freaking it with some grilled shrimp or braised short rib and a dollop of chili crisp (if you want to dial up the heat).
Soy & scallion noodles,$11.99 (for a 5-pack) by Momofuku
The sales and discounts our team is currently watching.
Sid Mashburn's overshirt is crafted from an Italian seersucker that’s light enough to keep you cool throughout the spring and summer days. And now, it’s more than 50% off.
$395 / $118.50by Sid Mashburn
Make a bunch of tasty margaritas at home for the price of just one out at a restaurant. This 16 oz. bottle makes around ten cocktails with zero preservatives, so there's no compromising taste.
$20 / $18 byWithco Cocktails
This lightweight 100% flax linen throw is ideal to cozy up with on the couch for weekend naps. The blanket is garment-washed for added softness and will complement any sofa.
$79 / $55 by Unison Home
The three best stories from around the web.
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There’s no one like Chris, and while he’s an open book, there’s also a vagueness to his digital imprint and what specifically makes him successful.”
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In architecture, stone and wood, and obviously glass and steel and plaster form the basis of everything.”
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Thankfully, there are a number of brands that are hard at work to create a brighter future by putting authentic ethical and environmental action at the forefront of their design and business vision.”
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I’m still playing this layering game.
February 25