The Obtainer - 3/24/23, Friday
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Friday, March 24th Edition
The word is out that double-monks could be making a comeback—should I dust mine off from my wedding day and bring them back out or stick with the single-monk gang?
- Leon Hedgepeth, Shopping Editor ⋯ @leonhedgepeth
The New Shoes on Our Radar
Is it time to re-evaluate the shoes in your closet? Maybe this list will help get you going in the right direction. There are so many great shoes dropping these days, we thought we would pull a few of our current favorites to showcase. From a beautiful pair of leather mules and suede derbies to some classic-looking trainers, these are the shoes our team can’t stop talking about.
On Our Radar
Over a decade ago, double-monk straps ruled the formal shoe space. Some say they're coming back, but now might be time for the single-monk shoes to have their moment. A single-monk boot has more duality—wear them with dark or black denim or pull them on with a natty double-breasted suit. Leave it to a Parisian company to craft something this stunning. Fursac's interpretation is made by hand from 100% calf leather and has the height of a formal Chelsea boot, finished with a simple, single strap. What's more, it's Goodyear welted, so these will literally last you a lifetime, as long as you get them resoled every ten years or so—not a horrible investment shoe if you ask me.
$568 by Fursac
Corridor has teamed up with heritage American athletic brand K-Swiss for a pair of serious tennis shoes. The standout of the collection, for us, is the SpeedTrac—a modern performance trainer engineered for the courts and other athletic activities. It's a next-generation tennis shoe specially developed for quickness and ease of movement. As durable as the shoe is comfortable, there's a weightless midfoot support mixed with a new outsole pattern providing maximum speed around the court. The mesh upper allows breathability while playing, and the molded Ortholite sock liner helps with stability as you move laterally.
$140 by Corridor x K-Swiss
Checking in With ...
Stòffa
Slow and steady wins the race, as they say. That’s certainly been Stòffa’s brand ethos since its inception almost ten years ago. I’m sure you’ve seen their look books floating around social media and mood boards alike with their relaxed tailored silhouettes in luxe looks shrouded in leather, cashmere and linen. While they offer ready-to-wear, their made-to-measure program is one-of-a-kind and is the focal point around their uniquely tasteful deadstock fabrics. Aside from a slow and sustainable business model, the brand’s goal is to help you add lasting pieces to your existing wardrobe rather than a complete overhaul season after season. We caught up with co-founder Nicholas Ragosta, to talk about what the brand and shop is up to these days.
Unlined field blouson, $1,100 by Stòffa
What items are you guys most excited about at the moment?
For years, we've been collecting archival fabrics that are no longer in production, and this season we're offering some of our signature designs in these special “deadstock” fabrics. One standout is an unlined version of our field blouson in this beautiful, speckled wool, silk and linen mix. Looking ahead to summer, we're also very excited about our new seersucker series. The lounge jacket is super lightweight and slinky and can be done with matching drawstring trousers for a casual suit vibe.
Who is the “Stòffa” customer these days?
We're proud that it's an eclectic mix. It's both younger and older individuals, local or just visiting. Some are looking for advice on carefully building their wardrobe or to have clothes that express their style, and others want a deeper connection with the materials and makers of their clothes. We see professionals looking for their weekend wardrobe or adapting to relaxing dress codes, along with creatives from the worlds of art, design and architecture.
Spread collar shirt, $450 by Stòffa
What’s really been selling lately?
Our collection of shirting. Knits and wovens have been popular—particularly as the warm weather approaches. Many of the shirts can be made with matching trousers, so you can create matching sets that feel very relaxed but still elegant.
Spread collar shirt, $450 by Stòffa
Double-breasted shirt jacket, $1,300 by Stòffa
The brand offers a made-to-measure program—how are guys asking for their clothes to be tailored?
Made-to-measure is about the individual, so it's personal, and the result reflects each person's unique preferences and body type. We're seeing people embracing more relaxed silhouettes and slinky, drapey fabrics like our drawstring trousers with a bit more length and room through the leg, or our double-breasted shirt jacket, which has a straight, relaxed cut—rendered in drapey tropical wool.
PP15 sunglasses, $275 by FOCA
You guys carry vintage sunglasses and beautifully-made ceramics, too. Are you leaning into any other lifestyle products in 2023?
We've been collecting and preparing a new set of vintage sunglasses from FOCA for release this spring. FOCA was a premier frame maker in Italy from the ’40s to the late ’80s—when the industry moved toward large-scale production, they chose to shut down rather than sacrifice quality. We work with a renowned eyewear historian named Lucia Stramare (whose father used to work for FOCA) to carefully sort through their archives and curate a collection of new-old stock that we offer online and in-store. We have new pieces launching throughout spring and summer.
Slow production and thoughtful consumption are the brand’s ethos. How did you all land on this philosophy?
It was our natural response to the fashion system we were operating in, which was often chaotic and harmful. We felt there was a better way. We wanted to create an opportunity for deeper connections, so we focused on making things one at a time in conversation with the client, hopefully creating a product that is inherently more personal and long-lasting.
That explains why you all don’t align with the usual fashion schedule, either.
We approach our collection as an evolving wardrobe, so we stick to an edited suite of models that can be interpreted in a variety of different materials. Slowly and deliberately—we layer new designs on top of our signature pieces. They're all rooted in classic ideas but not bound by a rigid system of rules, which allows us to move intuitively with the mood of a particular period. Clothing isn't disposable, so we want to create pieces that will stay with you for a long time. If you got something from us three years ago, it should still fit with the things we'll be offering three years from now.
The sales and discounts our team is currently watching.
A heavyweight workwear vest cut from a soft sweatshirt material that also repels water, so it's an ideal outerwear option for now.
$155 / $79by Carhartt WIP
You can never have too many fleece jackets, especially one that's over half off. Ostrya's surplus jacket is plush and insulated with adjustable cuffs and a funnel neck for additional warmth.
$300 / $90by Ostrya
A pair of lived-in chinos from the first wear is what Todd Snyder has achieved with these. Cut from vintage military khaki from Japan’s Kuroki mill, they’re hand sanded and patched.
$328 / $114by Todd Snyder
The three best stories from around the web.
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Allen fittingly loves that if-you-know-you-know brand of luxury that Philo is known for. Minimal. Made to last. And no logos.”
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Whether this thing falls from the overhead bin or nosedives down the baggage carousel, you can be confident what’s inside will survive, as long as you packed it correctly.”
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It’s safe to say that many Americans are not feeling “it” following the COVID-19 pandemic, ever-rising inflation, and last summer’s Supreme Court upheaval.”
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A Denim day in London…
February 5