The Obtainer - 3/13/23, Monday
↦ Get Bold This Spring
Monday, March 13th Edition
We’ve got a nice, long read for you today. Hopefully, while you’re reading this, the Oscars “Wrap It Up” song won’t play. Grab your closest source of caffeine and enjoy.
- Leon Hedgepeth, Shopping Editor ⋯ @leonhedgepeth
Here’s What Good Style Looks Like Now
If living in sweatpants was a sign of the times at the start of the pandemic, then in 2022 we finally started to see guys putting real effort into looking good. It seemed like with each month that went by, some sort of timeless men's garment would be revived. Think perennial classics like oxfords, well-tailored pleated trousers and proper footwear like loafers and lace-up derbies—things that don't really go out of style, but hadn't gotten much love over the past few years. And with their return, a desire to brighten up our outfits with brighter, bolder colors came too.
Of course, most guys today are getting their fashion news and how-tos from all sorts of digital outlets. But there was one book that put a time stamp on switching men's style from athleisure to a “#menswear 2.0” that catapulted the current state of men's fashion. The book is Black Ivy: A Revolt in Style by author Jason Jules—who you've likely seen in several of Drake's look books. The book is about a period in American history when Black men across the country adopted the clothing of a privileged elite and made it their own. And that suddenly feels like the vibe again.
As guys started to revisit a preppier look, the best brands took the hint and met the demands for “real” clothes again. While brands like Noah, Aime Leon Dore, P.Johnson, and Drake's were at the forefront of this new Ivy/prep movement, it put some pressure on heritage labels and even mall brands to dig back into their archives for their true identity in order to bring that back to the modern-day consumer.
This transition also happens to be a gateway to color and bold prints. Rugby polos, poplins, herringbone blazers and relaxed chinos—the good shit just looks better in shades designed to be noticed. One brand that notably dug back into its older collections was J.Crew—thanks to their most recent menswear designer, Brendon Babenzien, who's also the founder of Noah.
J.Crew menswear designer Brendon Babenzien.
Right out of the gate, his first big hit for the brand was the giant-fit chino, which essentially went viral in the menswear ecosystem. It was a return to prominence for the retail brand that hadn't seen much success since Todd Snyder and Frank Muytjens were at the helm of the menswear side. It was an exclamation mark for the label proving that guys can start having fun dressing again with color and in relaxed-fitting silhouettes.
Gone are the days of seeing dull look books in minimal or extremely moody outfits. From high-end fashion houses and heritage brands to contemporary labels, everyone seems to be incorporating more colors and prints than we've seen in the last five years.
I'm a uniform type of dresser who loves navy, grey, white and black. But even I found myself toeing the line of mixing in some colors lately. I'm not jumping off the deep end and purchasing every color in the Pantone spectrum, but I've been enjoying a baby blue sweater or even a cashmere zip-up cardigan in a rich shade of merlot. The key to mixing in color is just adding a piece to an already understated outfit.
Prince cotton blend cardigan, $915 by Wales Bonner
Jian DeLeon, Nordstrom's Fashion and Editorial Director had this to say about the easiest way to integrate color into your wardrobe, “Knitwear! You can throw it on under a more muted suit, sport coat, or jacket and instantly ground it in something classic—especially if you pair it with a pair of jeans or darker trousers.” He said there are a ton of great cashmere and merino sweaters and turtlenecks in statement colors at a variety of price points.
Prince cotton blend cardigan, $915 by Wales Bonner
Nembo tela wool overshirt, $850 by Barena
If you're not big into sweaters, then there are other tops to give you the option to hop into the color spectrum. “I would suggest starting with an overshirt or a blazer,” says Justin Berkowitz, Fashion Director for Bloomingdale's. “It's an item that most men own multiple of—so at this point, they likely have basic neutrals and are ready for another version. They're also easy to take off if one finds oneself in a situation where the color choice suddenly feels inappropriate for the circumstance.”
As the spectrum of colors has widened for guys, so have the actual silhouettes of everything from shirts and jackets to trousers. Those buzzy giant-fit chinos continue to sell out whenever new colorways are introduced. I'm about as happy as anyone that men have gradually drifted away from skinny jeans or super tight oxford shirts—especially if you're wearing color. A bright orange pair of pants will look better with some room in them as opposed to them being painted on your legs. “Like wearing a pair of wide-leg trousers, louder colors can be tempered with neutrals and other dark tones,” says DeLeon. “The palette for what a neutral is these days is far beyond basic navy blue and black. Earth tones and chocolate browns complement richer purples, cobalt blues, and of-the-moment magentas.”
Where colors and proportions meet, you should also know some of the best makers that feature color in their collections, along with the correct shape to help pull them off. Both of our industry experts unanimously picked Italian menswear legend Massimo Alba for subtlety in introducing colors in each collection that doesn't feel overwhelming to the consumer.
Summer cashmere polo shirt, $940 by Massimo Alba
“I'm always intrigued by the tones he chooses for a given fabric and the way he styles his look books to show how different colors can be worn together,” says Berkowitz. “He manages to make bold choices that somehow always feel sophisticated and down to Earth.” The Bloomingdale's Fashion Director also added an unexpected label that's actually synonymous with not using color: Rick Owens. “I realize this might sound counterintuitive, as the world mostly recognizes him for his use of black; however, I find when he does use color, he does so with a heightened sense of drama, which usually causes me to have a somewhat emotional reaction.”
Virgin wool-trimmed leather bomber jacket, $2,295 by Rick Owens
While men are embracing more color than in previous years, this inevitably brings up the question: Where do we go from here? One trend that rolled over from previous seasons is GORP and some evergreen pieces have crossed over into today's menswear climate—everything from fleeces and hiking boots, to down jackets and parkas. They all look great in the right color mixed with some traditional pieces.
Also, the current state of the working environment is more casual than ever, so I think guys will have a bit more fun dressing for the job. Instead of wearing a matching suit, maybe substitute the blazer for a forest green plush cardigan.
I think the color incorporated in men's closets again has leveled the fashion playing field. The current trend is having fun and wearing good shit—no matter where it's from. Jian and Justin shared the same sentiment that men are having fun dressing again. “Coming out of COVID, men have had to relearn the rules and decide which ones they want to adopt based on their new routines,” says DeLeon. “The hybrid workplace has only quickened the casualization of the wear-to-work wardrobe. The upside? Guys are having more fun when it comes to the types of special occasions where they're supposed to get dressed.”
Berkowitz weighed in and said, “Absolutely! While I think for many years, most men felt compelled to ascribe to a certain idea of male uniform, the rules have been thrown out the window. We're seeing that resonate in fashion items at Bloomingdale's; our customer is much more open to novelty, pattern, and color than ever before.” The overall takeaway is that dressing like an individual is back in a big way. And isn't that why we all get into fashion in the first place? The freedom to express ourselves through dressing? And if wearing more color is the gateway for all of us to be more of ourselves, well, we're definitely here for it.
Got the old Smedleys out and kate moth has swerved them. Worn here with the black calf Beaufoys and our red snaffle cap.
January 27