The Obtainer - 10/26/22, Wednesday
↦ A Collegiate Shirt's Comeback
Wednesday, October 26th Edition
We’re discussing an old ’90s favorite and vintage 501s—it’s so nostalgic I might bring back the #waybackwednesdays like the old Instagram days. Whatd’ya think?
- Leon Hedgepeth, Shopping Editor ⋯ @leonhedgepeth
Good/Better/Best
Rugby Shirts
It seems like we’re always highlighting the “classics” in this series. And rightfully so—they’re undeniable wardrobe staples that work on any and everyone. Next up on this list are rugby shirts. As Ivy/prep returns to the forefront of menswear (with a side of normcore), it was only a matter of time before we started seeing a resurgence of the rugby. We’d be remiss if we didn’t summarize the shirt’s origin story. A little hint, it derived from the sport—players used to play in handsome getups like white button-down shirts, matching trousers and bow ties. These guys were practically wearing a suit without a blazer—imagine getting hit while trying to adjust your bow tie. After a while (and, I’m guessing, some uncomfortable games), it was time to update the look. The rugby shirt that players wear as uniforms today are more performance-driven, more like what soccer players wear on the pitch. And while the game evolved away from the original shirt, the style remains a mainstay in menswear. It first grew in popularity in the ’90s, which is the latest decade currently influencing brands at the moment. There are a lot of great brands making quality rugby shirts that cover all price points. We’re here to help point you to the ones worth your money.
Garment-washed for a lived-in look and feel
Due to the polo being a “classic” fit, you may want to size down. The sleeves seem a bit long as well.
Split vents on the stepped hem allows for the shirt to drape nicely
Three-button placket with genuine shell buttons
Field-spec rugby shirt,$88 by Buck Mason
Cut from a woven oxford cloth, making this the lightest and most breathable option out of the three
Block printing creates a pattern between the blue and yellow colors
The cuffs are buttoned, so you’re able to roll the sleeves up like you would on a button-down
A back yoke allows for more fluid movement and a better overall fit
Lee block printed rugby shirt,$125 by 18 East
Made in the U.S. from a substantial cotton jersey material
Classic two-button but it’s been updated with a hidden placket
No split seams on the waist hem so this may bunch up depending on the fit
Short, ribbed cuffs for a proper fit around the wrists with underarm gussets for added mobility
Solid rugby shirt,$165 by J. Press
Stuff We Swear by
Levi’s 1947 501
I’ve had my fair share of different denim brands, and I continually spread the love—I’m not rocking one specific brand; if they fit well and come in an excellent wash, I’m game. I know it sounds cliché, but one brand that I’m constantly checking for is Levi’s Vintage Clothing. I don’t think it’s a secret that denim brands pull inspiration from old Levi’s 501s and some of the brand's other classic fits. What’s great about LVC is that each season the brand brings back original fits from a few decades ago to replicate for today.
A few years ago, I picked up a pair of LVC 1954 501s, and they’re some of my all-time favorite jeans. They have a tailored look while feeling comfortable enough to wear with a plain white tee and still look good. Since I already have a pair of dark 501s, I thought, why not grab a lighter pair? I bought the 1947 501s a few weeks ago and wish I had pulled the trigger sooner.A brief history about the jeans: They came out right after the second World War had ended, and the emergence of the middle class was starting to evolve. People wanted a slimmer fit in a cleaner look without all the bells and whistles. Levi’s reproduced all the details from back then—starting with a 12 oz. red line selvedge denim which actually gets heavier (more like a proper 14 oz.) after washing. The jeans are also made with watch pocket rivets along with double-needle technology—the well-known double-arched stitch on the back pocket is now done by a machine though.
Enough about the history; what about the fit? I always size up in Levi’s because they tend to run small and typically shrink about 10% even when you air dry them. I usually go with a 32x32, but I went with a 32x34 since that’s what was in stock, but I had them hemmed to a 32. I typically order 30x30 in other brands, but once you wear and wash them a few times, they will organically shrink down to the fit that I’m looking for—I experienced this same process in my 1954 501s, and they fit perfectly today.Unlike the ’54 fit, the 1947 pair is slimmer in the top block area and sits right on the waist with a straight fit towards the leg. These are like a vintage slim-straight fit with the perfect thrifted wash that people seek today. And while the 1954 501 was the 501Z, which is a zip-fly, these are a classic button-fly. The buttons are almost chalk-like in color, but worn down like I’ve had these for years—I can only imagine how much cooler they’ll look after even more wear on them. With so many great denim brands out there today, Levi’s Vintage Clothing is still the G.O.A.T., and although the pricing can be a bit steep, it’s the story and fit (not to mention the stellar quality and durability) that make it all worthwhile.
1947 501 jeans,$285 by Levi’s Vintage Clothing
The sales and discounts our team is currently watching.
A versatile sweatshirt that can be worn year-round. Layer it underneath a denim jacket, topcoat, or even wear it to bed—it's that comfortable.
$98 / $64by Jungmaven
Whether you're running outdoors or on the treadmill, a breathable mesh hat is a handy performance piece that provides shade and keeps the sweat out of your eyes.
$55 / $38.50 by District Vision
Comfort is key with this sophisticated half-zip from Parisian label Officine Générale. Made from a smooth cotton loop-back jersey, it's tailored to look sharp despite the relaxed vibe.
$235 / $117 by Officine Générale
Sustainable brand Veja teamed up with Rick Owens to create these ninja-like tech sneakers, crafted from bio-sourced elements.
$290 / $131 by Rick Owens x Veja
Crafted from a water-resistant, lightweight material, this cruiser jacket features a peaked hood that will keep the rain off your face.
$325 / $165 by Nanamica
A quality leather jacket for less than $600 is always a great idea. This one is cut from high-end sheepskin for a jacket that's incredibly soft, right off the hanger.
$598 by John Varvatos
The three best stories from around the web.
“
Stylist Oisín Ruben met Furneaux on a shoot and bonded over shared plans to run the Snowdon Ultra 50 Mile, while Samuel Tang has long been on Furneaux’s collaboration wishlist due to his involvement with another hiking collective, Common Ground.”
//
“
From October 29 to November 15, shoppers can head to DSM’s Tokyo location to get an up-close look at eight ensembles spanning Abloh’s time at Louis Vuitton, a nearly four-year-long run cut short by the designer’s unexpected death in November 2021.”
//
“
Compact and rangefinder cameras that you can load up with reels of silver halides rather than memory cards are among the most romanticised totems of their type.”
//
Back in London. Sports coat weather.
October 17